Cruise Port 14 – Praia, Santiago, Cape Verde

by Ed · June 7, 2023

Saudações e Olá (Greetings and Hello in Portuguese)!

Today, May 17th, 2023, we arrive at Santiago, the first of two Cape Verde islands.

The Cape Verde Islands gave Portugal a stepping stone to the African gold, allowing the Portuguese to avoid landing in Islamic-held north Africa. Santiago became a hub for the slave trade in the 15th and 16th centuries, being an intermediate port between Africa and America, the Caribbean and Brazil. Cidade Velha was the original capitol of Cape Verde, but after many pirate attacks the capitol moved to the other side of the island to Praia. We have a tour today to see both Praia and Cidade Velha!

We awaken to the island coming into view bathed in the yellow sunrise.

As we tie up to the pier we see we have another industrial dock. No one can walk into town from here.

We board our tour bus with out tour guide, Kevin, and head into Praia. We start a lengthy walking tour – the weather is great! The main pedestrian walk has wonderful tree canopies!

We arrive at the Market! Kevin gives us 30 minutes to explore. Joy and I are on a mission to find artichokes to take to the ship for Joy’s birthday dinner tomorrow!

There are over 100 fruit and veggie stands, but none of them have artichokes today. Bummer!

But the stands are colorful and these plywood stands sell drinks and cooked food for lunches!

Leaving the Market we pass by a sign that hints at what has happened here and throughout Africa – China has been buying up everything!

The pedestrian street dead ends into the main city square, Praça Alexandre Albuquerque.

We first encounter a statue of Governor General Serpa Pinto in the park. The Governor General was a well-renowned soldier and recognized Africa explorer! Praia’s City Hall rises up in the distance at the other end of the square.

At the side of the square is the Church of Our Lady of Grace. This is a classic gothic structure from the late 1800s.

We get to go in! This church has a very beautiful interior with lovely detailing! We are told this is a very popular church for weddings and baptisms – people come from other islands, Africa, and Portugal to this venue!

The Stations of the Cross can be seen about ten feet up on the walls. Here is the 7th Station of the Cross! This one hangs crooked and appears to have been dropped (broken corners).

Leaving the Church of Our Lady of Grace we reenter the square and see the statue of Governor Caetano Alexandre de Almeida e Albuquerque for whom this square is named.

The is the Presidential Palace! It was originally the Governor’s house before a president was elected.

I notice a couple of birds strutting across the President’s lawn. Someone said, “Those are ibis!”, but I know they aren’t. Would you believe these are Cattle Egrets? Yup, but no cows around here!

We come to an overlook and see the intriguing waterfront of Praia!

At the point of the overlook is this stern sculpture of Diogo Gomes surveying the same view I just showed you. He is the man attributed with discovering Santiago Island!

Looking a little closer at the island along the waterfront we get a view of the Santa Maria Islet, also known as Leper Island. Lepers were once quarantined here.

Behind us is the Jaime Mota Barracks. This is an active military complex for 18-year-old recruits in the army. This is a dormitory and training center. (We peeked in a side window and saw the bunk beds!)

We return to the bus and begin our trek to Cidade Velha.

On the way we pass this beautiful mural! “Viagens nas Tintas” means Travel in Paint. The artist has covered the wall with portraits of dozens of musical artists! This is great!

On our way out of Praia the bus encounters this interesting stretch of cobblestone road!

We pass by the Piaget University – a private school. This was the first university in Cape Verde. But it has been struggling lately.

The Cape Verde government collaborated with China to build the public University of Cabo Verde. They undercut the price of Piaget, and now most students go here.

Another cobblestone road leads us to the next stop…

…the Royal Fortress overlooking Cidade Velha!

The Fortress construction began in 1587 and took 6 years to complete. It was built using ballast rock from the bellies of ships and slave labor!

The Fortress and this valley are UNESCO sites for the biological and ethnic diversity and history of the area!

Heading in, the Fortress courtyard is only occupied by a cistern dome.

The Fortress overlooks the old Cidade Velha. Kevin tells us Cidade Velha is the oldest city built by Europeans built outside of Europe (St Augustine was founded after this.) Cidade Velha was repeatedly attacked by pirates, and the church was the target of destruction, being repeatedly bombed by cannon fire and rebuilt. After multiple attacks the Fortress was finally built to protect the town.

Curiously, none of the cannon on display were mounted in their cradles.

Joy befriended this little girl. This little calico adopted Joy, and repeatedly tried to follow Joy to the bus!

From the Fortress we head down to the city. We park near the city square hosting several vendors. The old pillory post still stands in the center. This is the site of punishments and slave sales.

Kevin tells us we will have time to wander the square, but first he wants to show us a little of the city.

This is Banana Street. It is the first street and is lined with joined houses that set the standard in appearance – with a center door and two windows and personalized with decorative floral displays. The street received its name from the banana plantation that was at the end of the street.

We visit the Church Nosso do Rosario just above Banana Street.

This church is relatively simple inside, with a beautiful, beamed ceiling and wainscot tile. The Stations of the Cross are about 14 feet above the floor here!

This is their 7th Station!

Priest Nicolau Gomes Ferreira was the church head for 59 years. During that time he sired over three dozen children! This disregard for the abstinence requirement of priests embarrassed the Catholic Church so much they refused to allow Ferreira to be interred inside the church. They forced him to be interred outside!

We are allowed to tour the market square!

We see an interesting wooden box with rocks inside and guess it’s a game. Joy asks how is the game played?

This is Yusef. He teaches Joy how to play the game. It is a series of cups filled with seeds. The game is called Ouril, the Cape Verde form of a more widely known game, Mancala.

We climb back on the bus and head back to the ship. This beach confirms fishing is still a thriving business here, and the painting on the far wall suggests tuna is a popular catch!